Week 4
	Molinaseca to Santiago

I set off early on Thursday, May 9th and without breakfast, trying to avoid the large town of Ponferrada, most of it anyhow, I almost got lost at the other end of town as no arrows in sight, but following the directions given me freely by the locals, I managed to find my way out of it. Apart from interesting churches Ponferrada has an ancient and impressive Templar Castle, which I passed, but had no time to visit it.

Ponferrada Castle

To my dismay, I had to start climbing again via Cacabelos to the delightful Villafranca del Bierzo, a distance of 26 km = 16 miles. Bierzo is the also the name of the district and another wine growing area, like Rioja, but not so well known. We tried a lot of the local brew. I must have arrived early again, walking solo; I avoided the municipal refugio and headed for the privately run refuge run by the family of Don Jesus Jato nearby. A great welcome by Virginia, the assistant, but no sign of Jesus. Instead his brother Gustavo turned up later, who spoke reasonable German and English, and kept us all amused with his many stories. Again, I had much time to explore the town, a very steep downhill walk, do some shopping for the next day and have a good look around. The well-known Church of Santiago with its Puerta del Perdon - Door of Pardon/Forgiveness was next to the refugio and I paid it a visit. Pilgrims, who had made it this far but were too sick or injured to continue to Santiago were, once they had crossed through the "Door of Forgiveness", granted all the same benefits and indulgences as if they had completed their pilgrimage.

Storks nest near Villafranca

Several new pilgrims turned up here, amongst them three German girls, Christina, Elisabeth and Martina. Somehow we stuck together to the very end, as well as with Barbara, Pilar, Graciela and Jose. Michael from Ireland, but living in USA, and a Dutch couple joined us in the evening for a well-prepared meal in the refugio including unlimited wine for €6 = £4. A peculiar arrangement here: One room for the over 50's (the snorers ?) where I planned to stay. But when I tried to sleep there later, I found a neighbour who snored loudly and happily. So I grabbed my sleeping bag and moved next door with all the younger girls. I felt quite safe there. It was well known, that Gustavo or Jesus would be able to transport anyone's rucksack to the top of the next mountain we had to reach next day for 2 Euros (£1.35) in O Cebreiro. Several others and I gave in to this temptation and it was well worth it. Elisabeth, who had already developed many blisters after only five days walking (from Leon), even managed to get a lift there at the same time. This was day 24 for me. It was in Villafranca del Bierzo that I met the three horse-riding pilgrims together for the last time. They split up later 2 + 1 because of rumoured arguments. We were even given free breakfast the next morning in this most friendly, but simple place. It was Friday, May 10th, and a late start for me. BUT NO RUCKSACK ! What a luxury! What a relief! But I had a 30 km = 19 mile uphill walk in front of me including a short while along a busy main road, not very pleasant. This was a hard route, but a very scenic one. Another way was all along the main road, but quite dangerous. Walking through one of the many villages, I suddenly heard someone shouting "Bruno" loud and clear from over 50 yards away. It was Cristina, the Spanish warden from Molinaseco, 2 days back, who ran another refugio there. Well, I could not stop long, as the steepest part of the day still lay ahead, but a brief 'Como estas' (how are you) was exchanged. I had left 'the girls' behind me and made a mistake at a junction. I took the long route instead of the steeper but shorter route and it began to drizzle. A change to rainwear takes at least 20 minutes. Suddenly I spotted 'the girls' ahead, but much as I tried, I could not catch up, impossible. The last few miles were over wet, rocky, narrow paths, so caution was important. I reached O Cebreiro almost in darkness at around 5 pm, my latest arrival time so far. The clouds hung very low. After booking in at the warmly heated refugio I found Lothar and Werner again, Meriam from Japan, who had her bunk above me, Eve from Vancouver, and many others. I had to collect my rucksack at the only bar/restaurant in this mountain top place. It consisted of the 12th century church of Santa Maria and nine houses. Now it really began to rain. Mistakenly, some of us dashed to the church for 8 pm mass hoping to listen to some real chanting, but it was in July / August only. Instead we could listen to recorded chanting. I partook of the highly recommended local soup (name forgotten) and on several occasions later. A beautiful place this, but bad weather spoilt it.

In the morning of Saturday, May 11th I set off early, without breakfast, into a much brighter day and at last going down hill a bit. But I found that after each downhill stretch there follows another uphill for sure. On one of the higher points, Alto de Poio, at 4412 ft = 1337 m, I came across a large statue of a pilgrim with his staff, at least 14 ft. high, looking towards Santiago. A useful stop to take some photos. I was getting more and more behind because of those five girls and now they persuaded me to have a midday meal with them in a restaurant along the way, something unheard of previously. We did have a good meal, washed down with 'vino'. See photos. A rumour went around in the restaurant (in Spanish) that a pilgrim had collapsed and died nearby. Well, it wasn't one of us or one of our fellow pilgrims as far as we knew, but there was a group of American (take it easy) pilgrims in the vicinity. We heard no more about it. Next stop was either Triacastela, nearer, or Samos, nearly 6 miles further. We opted for the former. Arriving early in the afternoon, we clubbed together and hired a taxi, which took 8 of us in two trips to the nearby enormous Benedictine monastery in Samos.

The Monastery at Samos

Unfortunately, we could not visit the inside, just the souvenir shop, but waited patiently until 8 pm to join the evening vesper. A satisfying visit. This monastery is one of the oldest in Spain and was founded in the 6th century. Back in our refugio I shared a small 4-bunk room with the 3 German girls. After all, I was their bodyguard! The facilities here were again excellent, including a washing machine. We were now in the last province of the Camino, Galicia. From now on a large wayside stone could be found every half kilometre showing the distance still to be walked, starting at 154 km = 96 miles.

Another Sunday, May 12th. It began with light rain, the second time I had to use my rain gear, after I had breakfast with Jose in a local café. I walked all on my own that day, a quite uneventful one, until I reached Sarria, along a large river by the same name. The refugio was up many steps in the town centre, not easy to find, as the yellow arrows were hard to locate. Jose and Graciela turned up and we went off for an early snack near the river. Had I mentioned Eve from Canada before? She was still with us, 71 years of age and keeping up with young and old. There was a lot of verbal trouble here with the lady warden. This is when Barbara and Pilar came in very useful with their perfect Spanish. It finished off peacefully. Another evening meal with the 5 German girls and Graciela and then off to a well-deserved sleep.

It really did rain a lot during the night and also next morning, Monday, May 13th, so I dressed up with rainproof trousers and poncho straight away, the poncho also covering the rucksack, and off I went. I had the raingear outside and on top of my rucksack all those days and, in a way, was glad to use them at last. There was worse to come. On this day I reached the 100 km (63 m) to-go stage, and whilst I waited for the girls to catch up to make a photo there I had a short rest with a snack from my bag. Shortly after the photos were taken the heavens opened. It really bucketed down. I knew there should be a small bar within half a mile or so in Morgade (will it be open, I thought?), so I brazed the rain regardless. The girls had reached the bar a few minutes earlier, saw me coming, opened the door and we all had 'bocadillos' - sandwiches, and this famous soup for me again. This little bar filled up with pilgrims, it was awash with rainwater brought in by us and it had to be swept out frequently. The lady next door kept bringing in large pots full of freshly cooked soup. I left as soon as I had finished my 2 helpings of soup. The rain had nearly stopped. It was from about here (or maybe 2 days earlier?) that I kept marking on any useful areas with my black marker pen my name "BRUNO" and the time of day for those constantly lingering behind girls. They were about half my age or sometimes less and just not up to a bit of torture. Elisabeth, of course, was suffering more day by day, and the others stayed with her. On this day, just before the downpour, I saw Eve for the last time and we had a photo together. Just before Portomarin I made yet another mistake by not checking directions properly, which cost me a mile or two detour. Very annoying. The town has to be entered via a very long bridge over the reservoir. Portomarin, where I stopped for the night, was relocated between 1956 and 1962 to enable the valley to be flooded. It is now a new town with little Spanish character, except for the impressive church of San Nicholas, which was moved and reconstructed stone by stone with some of the numbering still visible.

San Nicholas Church

It was a pleasant hot and sunny afternoon here. I met more new friends here, Klaus and Maggie and Birgit, all from Germany. The refugio was a little crowded, but no snorers in our room of 16. I am now getting nearer and nearer to my goal, only 58 miles - 92 km. Am I getting excited? Not really. I just keep going. But we all spent a happy and restful afternoon here.

I have lost Lothar and Werner again. Maybe they are ahead. The morning of Tuesday, May 14th was dry and warm. Soon after crossing a long bridge I started climbing again, endlessly. It is here that the eucalyptus forests start which were with me all the way to Santiago. They are very large 40 - 60 feet tall and very straight trees. At some point by early afternoon a worthwhile detour was suggested in order to visit the 14th century church of EL SALVADOR with very valuable wall paintings and impressive effigies of the Knights of the Order of Santiago, who settled here in 1184. This church is busily being restored for the next Holy Year in 2004. It was a great effort for the few of us to add these 6 km (4 miles) detour onto an already strenuous walk and during the midday heat. It was my second similar detour, after EUNATE, but whilst here, it was not to be missed. I spent half an hour in this magnificent half-restored church in Vilar de Donas.

Effigies in El Salvador Church

Returning towards Palas De Rei, I chose to walk along the N547 main road in order to save a short distance, but walking along main roads, always against the traffic, is generally avoided by us and can be rather dangerous. Our refugio here was again in the centre of this small town spread over several rooms. It was here we found the showers without any doors (see earlier).

Now only 67 km (42 miles) to go as I set out next morning, Wednesday, May 15th, along a badly marked exit of the town. Sometimes it is best just to head due west, as you cannot go far wrong. There were no arrows anywhere at a certain fork in the road with a distinct (pilgrims) monument with arms flailing but which way to go? I ventured to the left for a hundred yards or so, NO ARROWS, so I returned and took the right fork for a while until a local Spaniard spotted me as a pilgrim and advised me to go back to the left fork. What a relief, when I finally saw some arrows or shells again. Someone else shouted for me as I passed a certain building. It was Jose, who had stayed ahead in this small refugio in a place called Casanova, still partly pushing or riding his bicycle and filming the CAMINO.

A luchtime break

Two more overnight stops were in my and many others plans. It turned very hot now. Again, being early and in front of most of the others, I decided about noon, to stop for a snack out of my food bag, stripped off most of my clothing and cooled my feet in the nearby river, absorbing the sunshine. The two Belgian pilgrims on horseback passed me here. I must have stopped an hour, but no-one of the girls brigade caught up, so I continued and reached Ribadiso de Baixo, after having earlier negotiated my way through Melide, where I could have stopped. The refugio in Ribadiso d.B. had been a pilgrim's rest since medieval times, has now been wonderfully restored and lies next to the river ISO. It was certainly the best I came across: Ideal situation, clean rooms and bunk beds, excellent showers etc., except for one thing: no village, town or shops nearby. I had 'reserved' five beds for the girls (it was not really allowed), as I had done on many occasions before and after, and found myself next to Birgit. Ten of us happily shared all our food, brought tables and benches into the open next to the river and had a gorgeous meal, with wine, of course.

Meal at Ribadiso de Baxio

Last but one walking day, on Thursday, May 16th! Another early start, more eucalyptus forests, more uphill and downhill walking, and more warm weather. I stopped at a roadside bar for a welcome cuppa. You always get a pot of tea with milk or lemon, enough for 2 cups. I saw many pilgrims walking past. A little later I came across another monument to a pilgrim having died here, a GUILLERMO (William) WATT, aged 69, died 25.8.1993, with his metallized boots preserved.

Memorial to G Watt

Now for the last overnight stay before Santiago. I had been with Birgit on and off all day. She walked a different pace, being quite young, but we met here and there. Again, I managed to 'reserve' beds for all the girls (6 now) and avoiding the snorers. Meriam from Japan joined us here. This refugio in Arca - O Pino was again fairly new, clean with hot water for showers, as most refugios had been in all Galicia, much better than in the early stages. Birgit even discovered a bathroom here and used it. Everyone was in a relaxed and happy mood, looking forward to the last leg of our long journey. We all trooped out for a good meal nearby: Christina, Elisabeth, Martina, Barbara, Pilar, Birgit, Dietrich and myself. The meal was excellent, the wine flowed, the waiter brought extra liquor 'on the house' and suddenly someone (was it me?) started singing. As we all spoke German, we went through all our old folk songs for at least an hour. Guests from neighbouring tables came to applaud us. It was hilarious. You would not have believed that at least some of us had just walked almost 500 miles. And so to bed in the last refugio.

I only had to walk another 20 km = 12 miles on the last day, Friday, May 17th, but it was a dull day and light rain fell, not enough for using rain gear, but drizzling all the time. I had to circle the Santiago airport, which was miles out of town, then came over a hill to see the town for the first time. Not the best view or the original view, as much industry has developed on this side. On this hill called Monte del Gozo or Monxoi or Mount Joy is a small, very old chapel dedicated to SAN MARCOS. It was closed. Nearby a huge monument. It was a long way downhill to the outskirts of Santiago, still drizzling, and I entered the town with Birgit, and together we tried to find the way to the cathedral. It was yet another 'fiesta', a holiday. Almost by accident, we finished up on this large square, the PLAZA DEL OBRADOIRO, right in front of the cathedral. It was about 1 pm. The 12-noon pilgrim's service was in progress, so we could not enter the cathedral. Whilst Birgit rested and sheltered under the arches, I went to enquire the surroundings. We then registered at the pilgrim's office nearby and received the coveted Compostela, the Cathedral's certificate of a completed pilgrimage. Suddenly I found Lothar and Werner again and also Dietrich. The former suggested good lodgings for us, which we took and we could at last settle into a room of our own, relax and unwind. Lothar and Werner left for home the same day.

In front of the Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela