Santiago de Compostela and home

The real feeling of achievement, gratitude and more gratitude overtook me only on the next day, Saturday, May 18th, in particular during the midday pilgrim's service in the cathedral, especially the massive communion of at least 2 - 3000 worshippers. This service for the Pilgrims is held every day at noon and the pilgrims are especially mentioned. As it is performed in Spanish or Latin, I could not understand very much. At the end the large thurible or bo-ta-fu-me-i-ro is brought in and swung very high to the amazement of all onlookers. I had the privilege of taking part at midday on two more occasions and could each time watch the thurible swinging as well. The whole cathedral is a masterpiece of architecture and I spent much time there. I particularly admired the massive organ. A nun was leading us on to follow her beautiful singing. 8 - 10 monks performed the thurible swinging and did it very well. During the services I met again: Klaus and Maggie, Meriam, Neli and Herkide, Johann and Susanne, the nun.

Piazza in front of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

It was well known, that in Santiago, at the posh Parador hotel, every morning, midday, and evening, the first 10 pilgrims queuing up, would receive a free meal, same as the kitchen staff. So I queued up whenever possible and was only late once. This is an ancient custom and we partook in this offer partly out of curiosity, partly to save the custom from dying out and, of course, partly to save money. Here I met Manon from Canada and later Johann from Estonia, Adam and Nicky from Montreal and Winnipeg in Canada, a lady from Mexico and Silke and Ivana from Germany, as well as several others. Slowly we all had to part and say 'Au revoir'. But before that I took a bus ride together with Dietrich to visit Finisterre and Cap Finisterre, about 93 km away (58 miles) a distance, which some pilgrims, such as Graciela, Birgit, Otto and Andrea have attempted to walk. From the harbour town of Finisterre we had to walk another 4 km = 2.5 miles to reach the actual cap or end of the European landmass, known prior to the discovery of America as the end of the world. It was a beautiful, sunny day and Dietrich and I found a quiet place near the waters edge on the very rocky promontory to sit, separately, for a long time reminiscing . Only Manon was somewhere nearby similarly occupied. It was a wonderful opportunity to unwind, to pray and to express gratitude for the completion of this fantastic achievement, The Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, and to be able to do it in such serene and overpowering surroundings as at Cap Finisterre.

Last Pilgrim Cross - Cap Finisterre

Dietrich wanted to stay on longer, but I rushed to catch to 2 pm bus back and here I met a young girl of 5 years old, Ivana, with her mother, Silke, from Germany. Ivana, already very chatty at that age, proudly told me (and the rest of the bus) that she had "walked the Camino with her mother for 260 km "(160 miles). She carried a tiny rucksack, her mother carrying the rest plus a child-size violin, which she practised on every day and even gave us a performance after one of those free meals. This was on Sunday, May 19th. With the help of my 'Compostela' all pilgrims can get a 50% reduction on air fares, so I obtained my return ticket on Monday for a flight next day, Tuesday, May 21st, direct to Gatwick. It still cost £131, as on-way flights are never cheap. I spent the Monday looking for friends, a little shopping, saying 'au revoir' but not 'good-bye' to friends from all parts of the globe, a little relaxing, and final packing. My rucksack on the way home weighed 14 kg. I must mention one more outstanding person whom I met during those 'free meals'. His name was JOHANN, he had already walked from Lithuania, over a period of 2 years, a distance of nearly 3000 km = almost 1900 miles, and was on his way to Rome and Jerusalem. Whilst I had one and a half of Pilgrim's Record books full of stamps (45) of accommodation, etc., Jonathan produced about 10 of those filled record books. The other remarkable thing was, he had long run out of money and relied on the kindness of fellow pilgrims or tourists for his next meal etc. Naturally, I also looked after him whilst we were together. He has my address. Will he ever write to me? He told me, he had lost his wife and daughter in a motor accident, a remarkable chap.

View of Santiago de Compostela

I have gathered names and nationalities of 64 pilgrims, noted addresses of 27 of them. I have written to all of them, often with photos, and nearly all have replied. And just now, in November, I have finally traced Marianne after much effort, who says, she still has my walking stick lying in her car somewhere in Spain. This Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela will be foremost in my memory forever as the most worthwhile experience I have planned, undertaken and accomplished.

As is well known to some, I had committed myself to collect at least £1000 for Breakthrough Breast Cancer and I have so far been able to transfer to this worthwhile cause, as collected from relatives and my many friends, including some complete strangers, the sum of £ 1757.45. I hope to reach at least £2000. Once more my grateful thanks to all sponsors

Praise the Lord, who gave me the strength to do it and who must have been at my side to finish it!

BRUNO aka GOTTHARD.